HEMEL WATCHES: THE BEST AVIATION MICRO WATCH BRAND?

HEMEL WATCHES: THE BEST AVIATION MICRO WATCH BRAND?

Today another Microbrand watch focus has led me to Hemel Watches. For you Aviation watch lovers out there this could be the one for you. 

Brand history

Hemel Watches is a New York City based American watch microbrand run by Marvin Menke, who founded the company in 2012. Marvin grew up bilingual in both Dutch and English, and "Hemel" is the Dutch word for "sky". (If only all brands had a simple yet effective etymology behind their names). Over the last couple of years, Hemel have deepened their tie-in with the US military, including a partnership and licensing with the United States Air Force.

Editor's Pick

Today I'm looking at the Hemel Airfoil. This is the first model for Hemel to feature an Seagull ST19 movement. What is the history of the Seagull movement? A good question and I found some info on the Micro Brand Store;

Movement: 19 jewel Seagull ST1901 hand-wound decorated movement with blued screws, featuring a swan neck regulator for easier and more accurate regulation adjustments to improve the accuracy of the timepiece. The ST19 started out as a famous Swiss movement, the Venus 175, which was used in Swiss watches such as the Breitling Chronomat. Seagull acquired the design and original manufacturing machinery from Venus and developed the improved ST19 series from this design.

It comes with a beautiful 120 click ceramic bezel. It's inspired by 1970s chronographs that and that bi-compax really gives it a vintage vibe. 

What is a bi-compax layout?

According to Bob's Watches;

Bi-compax models use two subsidiary dials, one that is constantly running as the standard seconds counter, while the other is usually a minute totaliser which only comes into operation when the chronograph is in use. 

The entire case is polished, including the buckle on the light brown leather strap. The matt finish on the dial face gives the watch some restraint. 

It’s a good looking movement which is exposed on the caseback. Hemel Watches are really well known for their lume which looks great in the reviews. I also love the small details such as the 'H' on the crown.

Spec

  1. • Case Width: 42 / 40 mm

  2. • Caseback: Screwdown, exhibition, engraved

  3. • Dial: Matte black w/Superluminova C3

Feedback on YouTube

From the watch review on Watch Chris YouTube channel, 

I have two watches with this movement. I have seagull with a panda dial and a ‘1963’ (Chinese military chronograph homage). Have worn them regularly and never had a problem with that movement. Besides the fact that it looks cool, it’s a great way to get into a mechanical chronograph if you just don’t have the money for a big brand or luxury mechanical chronograph movement.

Current price on the Hemel Website £400. 

If you work for Hemel Watches and you happen to come across this article, I would love to be involved with future campaigns or press days. Please get in touch.

Founder of this eponymous blog, focusing on men's fashion & lifestyle.