1990’s Minimalism and Power Dressing
The 90’s saw an up-rise in Power Dressing. More emphasis was put on the shoulder line. In 1980 Giorgio Armani deconstructed the jackets for Richard Gere in American Gigolo by removing the padding.
10 years later Cerruti had replaced the padding for Richard Gere in Pretty Woman. Whilst both looks are aspirational, one can delineate the casualisation of the suit as a maverick on his way up, versus someone established and in a place of authority.
Above: A more mature Richard Gere dressed in Cerruti
In 1993 Cerruti was called into action again to accentuate the wealth and charm of Robert Redford in Indecent Proposal.
His 4-1 on construction double breasted suits with peak lapels came armed with strong shoulders to amplify Redford's profile. It was a reaction against the glamour of the industry of the 80’s. Plaid flannel shirts with tees flooded the market initially, but once that was over saturated, monochromatic and restricted colour hues made its way into the mainstream.
Above: Redford exudes authority in double breasted
Politically Reagan and Thatcher were replaced with liberals Blair and Clinton. In turn this spawned a youth movement. Reality TV was on the rise. Oprah was becoming a brand that reflected honesty and realism. Roxanne was a hit TV show, more relatable than Dynasty or Dallas. It was a time for Blue collar mid-western real folk.
Above: Kurt Cobain the unexpected style icon of the 90’s
Grunge and techno was a big movement in the 90’s. Commercial artists like Moby and Adamski came to the fore and bands like Nirvana spearheaded a movement of oversized hoodies, cardigans and shapeless knits. Kurt Cobain was the unexpected style icon of his era. Grunge was such a tour de force Marc Jacobs produced a 93 grunge collection for American Fashion designer Perry Ellis.
Above : Courtney Love and Marylin Manson now considered a fashion miss
In Womenswear we saw the birth of a Minimalist look, paired with high fashion, the heroin chic, the look of over indulgence. Courtney love became the brand ambassador for Yves Saint Laurent. Now considered a fashion miss. Skinny clavicle hip bone models with scrawny shoulders were the rage. It was the age of the Supermodels. Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer.