Karlovy Vary: Ultimate Romantic Getaway

In a previous post I gave you some recommendations of what to see and do in Prague for a couples getaway. From Prague we took the train to Karlovy Vary to continue our romantic break, and stayed two nights in Grandhotel Pupp.

The train you can book tickets from the Prague Main Station and they cost somewhere between £50-60. The journey itself is around 2.5 hours, but is pleasant enough and there is some beautiful scenery en route. The train has toilets and a drinks trolley with snacks, but I'd recommend getting something more substantial before you leave.

Arrival at Karlovy Vary

If you though Cash was king in Prague, it's a dictatorship in Karlovy Vary. There are no ATM's at the station and the cab drivers only take cash. Luckily there is an ATM in the Grandhotel Pupp. You can also get the bus there is need be.

TIP: If you're getting a taxi back from Grandhotel Pupp back to Prague, then don't get the hotel to book it. They do it at a fixed rate which is double what it should be. We paid 200 Czech Krona (£7) to the hotel and 400 on the way back.

Grandhotel Pupp

The hotel has established a name for itself in the past couple of decades for welcoming some high profiled celebrities and being the backdrop for films such as Casino Royale and Last Holiday. Being a Bond fan I emailed the hotel ahead of time and asked to reserve the seat where Bond and Vesper had dinner after Bond beat Le Chiffre at poker.

Whilst they said they cannot promise we'd get the table, they kindly did give it to us which was incredible.

TIP: Whilst the food was remarkable, I would steer clear of the wine pairing. We tried that out of curiosity but let's just say the Czech's aren't know for their wines.

The breakfast bar was fantastic, with plenty of options, great service and even sparkling wine on tap.

A recent (or at least it felt very modern and new) was the Bechers Bar which is situated downstairs. You don't have to stay at the hotel to have a drink there, but it might be advisable to book a table to avoid disappointment. They make some very creative cocktails there. So ask for the ones that make for the best photos.

The Spa area is not as big as I thought it would be, but I've probably been spoilt by the expansive baths at Baden Bei Wein in Austria. The mini tubs are also not as hot, but comfortable enough. The saunas and steam rooms were very well kept and easy to get to. I didn't check out the gym.

We got a room that had a balcony overlooking the car park and Kaiserbad. You should definitely book a full tour at the Kaiserbad. The newly renovated interiors look incredible, juxtaposed to the UNESCO protected historic baths which closed its doors in the 1980s. Because the building is UNESCO protected no works could be carried out that would affect the original walls and interiors. So everything you see inside is freestanding and had to be lowered in via crane.

The designer said it was like building a ship inside a bottle.

Where to eat

You won't struggle to find restaurants in Karlovy Vary. Everything is within 10 minutes walking distance from the hotel. We tried to get something to eat outside by the river but those spots were much coveted and we couldn't get a table. We did eventually get one on the last night, the Meat and Bone Steakhouse on the river which was really good. Although they told me they were out of chips which I found unbelievable. I eventually persuaded them to find some, which they did.

The Public Spa

Many of the hotels have public spas, but this one was recommended by the locals. The Lazne III. Apparently you can also bring beer into this one which was a 'gamechanger' for one of the tour guides. The spa building continues to serve not only for traditional spa treatment complemented with modern balneological procedures, but also as an important cultural and social centre. The Antonín Dvořák Concert Hall, for example, regularly hosts concerts of the Karlovy Vary Symphony Orchestra.

TIPS in general

We wished we stayed an extra couple of days and spent less time in Prague, which we found considerably overrun. We took a little tour of The Hotel Imperial which is the massive hotel on the hill that overlooks the entire town. The hallways and interiors looked very tired and we were pleased we opted for Grandhotel Pupp as it was modern and felt more special.

Take some comfy shoes and walk around. You won't get lost. Try drinking some thermal water which you can get for free outside the Kolonades. Also check the hotels for the film festival they have there. The Next date: Fri, 28 Jun 2024 – Sat, 6 Jul 2024.